In this blog post, I’ll be discussing how to lower off your partner when using your belay device in so-called “guide mode”.
Set up (scenario): you lead the pitch and set up to belay from the anchor points directly using, for example, Petlz Reverso. We know that this is one-way system and it’s hard to give a slack. Your partner has started to climb. For whatever reason (he has forgotten his mobile phone 🙂 ) you need to lower your partner back more than few centimetres, all the way to the stance! 🙁
Here’s what you should do:
a) make an overhand knot behind belay device on the dead rope to free your hands.
b) clip additional crab to your master point behind your belay device.
c) make Italian (Muter) hitch on that additional crab using dead rope, make sure this is very close to belay device
d) lock off Italian hitch with 2 half hitches
e) untie the overhand knot and take off the belay device, there might be a bit of slack in the rope so make sure that climber is safe (for example connected to a bolt)
f) now your climbing partner is on Italian (Muter) hitch, untie a locking hitches and you can start to lower him/her back or if a problem is solved you can belay him up!
Disclaimer: All climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions. If any of the technique, skills or advice presented on my blog are not clear to you, seek professional advice and instruction before applying them.
Easy? Sing up for my climbing courses in Poland and I can teach you all that in person!
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